WINES

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CHATEAU MARGAUX 1986


Reviewed by ANDRE BEAUMONT


Elegant farmyard nose; like cheese. Plenty of character. Deep hue and initial cheese flavour hint a big wine with exceptional potential.

Exceptionally strong. Plenty of tannin. Still young. Big and long; bigger than the 1996. Well-balanced but still to some extent closed. The tannins are not yet mellowing and promise longevity.

The grape varieties are 75% Cabarnet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and Cabarnet Franc. Fermentation is for three weeks in oak vats. Ageing is for 18 to 24 months in new French oak barrels. A vintage with strong tannin, such as 1986, can stay in oak for a period at the longer end of this time spectrum, the winemakers aiming for all important balance in the wine.

A compelling, big Margaux that should be revisited in coming decades. This will become an exceptional wine and classic vintage, perhaps the greatest since 1961.